Wine Gal and I recently went back to the restaurant wine tasting mother ship, L’Espalier, for its Wine Monday “France Off the Beaten Track” evening.  For $65, we feasted on a four-course meal paired with wines from regions of France other than the typical Bordeaux, Burgundy or Champagne.

We started with a 2009 Domaine de L’Orme “Les Grand Vaux” Tressallier from a mid-France region known as Saint Pourcain.  Our second-favorite (after Vanessa) sommellier, Erich, described the wine as a sort of colder weather-appropriate Sauvignon Blanc.  Served alongside was a delicious smoked Scottish salmon with endive and lemon puree, which set off the wine’s acidic notes perfectly.

Next up was a 2009 Toques et Clochers “Haute Valee” Chardonnay from Limoux in Southern France.  The wine couldn’t have been more different from a butterscotchy-type California Chardonnay.  But it still had the full body of a Chardonnay and was the perfect complement for the buttery lobster and halibut terrine that was served alongside, with braised fennel and apples.  Ummm!

I broke a personal rule and enjoyed what a friend describes as a “fairy tale animal” – veal – for our main course.  The veal was braised and so tender it broke apart with a fork, and was served with tagliatelle, mushroom ragout and baby carrots.  To drink, L’Espalier offered a 2006 Chateau Haut-Monplaisir “Prestige” from Cahors.  The grape was Malbec, which Erich said is increasingly rare these days from outside Argentina.  But apparently this small region of France has produced Malbec since the 13th century and continues to do so with aplomb.

Last up for the delicious cheese course that L’Espalier does as well as any restaurant in Boston: a 2009 Domaine Augis “La Rosee” from Loire.  I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Wine Gal and I love a tasty sparkler.  And this Malbec-based one hit the spot.

It was interesting to note that all four wines L’Espalier served were single varietal grapes. To quote Wine Gal, L’Espalier’s Wine Monday tastings continue to be “miles ahead of all the others.”

Pour votre santé, readers!